Marseille

The great neo-Byzantine basilica crowning the highest hill, its golden Madonna watching over the city and sailors — a dazzling striped-stone-and-mosaic interior hung with ship models, and, from its terrace, the finest panorama in Marseille over the whole city, port, islands and sea. The city's beloved symbol; walk or bus up, ideally for sunset.

The beating heart of Marseille for 2,600 years — a rectangle of blue water packed with fishing boats and yachts, ringed by cafés, with a morning fish market on the quay and Norman Foster's mirrored pavilion reflecting it all. Soak up the harbour bustle, watch the boats, and it's the departure point for the islands and the calanques.

Marseille's glory — a national park of dazzling white-limestone cliffs plunging into turquoise coves (calanques) along the coast, reached by boat trip from the port, or by bus and a hot hike down to swim in the clear water. Sormiou, Sugiton and En-Vau are stunning; take a boat cruise for the sweep of them, or hike in for a paradise swim.

The oldest quarter of Marseille, tumbling above the port — a maze of steep, narrow lanes of faded ochre and pastel houses, hung with washing and splashed with street art and murals, dotted with artisan boutiques, cafés and the grand old Vieille Charité almshouse. The most atmospheric wander in the city; get lost in its colourful lanes.

The striking Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations at the mouth of the port — a bold black concrete-lace cube linked by a vertiginous footbridge to the historic Fort Saint-Jean, with rooftop terraces and sea views. As much about the spectacular architecture, walkways and vistas as the exhibitions; the symbol of the city's reinvention.

Marseille's legendary dish — a rich Provençal fish stew of the day's rockfish, saffron and fennel, traditionally served in two courses (the broth with rouille and croutons, then the fish), a ritual meal born of the fishermen's leftovers. Have the real thing at a proper Vieux-Port or Vallon des Auffes restaurant (it's not cheap); a taste of the city's soul.

The scenic seafront road curving along the coast, with the sea and the islands on one side and grand villas on the other — and, hidden below it, the impossibly picturesque little fishing cove of Vallon des Auffes, a huddle of boats and cabanons beneath a stone viaduct. Walk or bus the Corniche, and time it for a sunset drink at the vallon.

The island fortress-prison in the bay, immortalised as the jail of Dumas's Count of Monte Cristo — a short boat ride from the Vieux-Port to explore the grim cells and ramparts, with a fine view back at the city. Atmospheric and literary; combine it with the neighbouring Frioul islands for a swim and a walk.

The Cours Julien and the lanes around it are an open-air gallery — nearly every wall, staircase and shopfront splashed with vivid, ever-changing street art and murals, amid indie shops, cafés and a Provençal market. The hip, creative heart of Marseille; wander with a coffee and hunt the murals, then stay for the buzzing nightlife.

The city's main beaches, a chain of man-made sand-and-pebble strands and lawns along the Prado seafront — good swimming, beach volleyball, a skate park and a copy of Michelangelo's David, backed by parks. Where Marseille swims and sunbathes in summer; a lively, free, easygoing beach day a metro ride from the centre.

Marseille's enormous 19th-century cathedral by the port, a striking striped-stone neo-Byzantine pile of green and white banding and great domes, with a cavernous, richly decorated interior. Impressive and unusual, right by the MuCEM and the trendy shopping arches (Les Voûtes) beneath it; a grand stop on the revitalised waterfront.

A magnificent 19th-century monumental fountain-and-colonnade palace built to celebrate water reaching the city — a grand sweep of cascades, statuary and colonnades framing two museums (fine arts and natural history) and a park behind. A striking, less-visited landmark; come for the architecture and a stroll in the gardens.

Marseille goes out with gusto — the bars and live-music venues of Cours Julien and La Plaine, the trendy spots along the port, and the multicultural buzz of Noailles, all cheap, unpretentious and lively. Bar-hop the Cours Julien terraces over a pastis or a spritz; the city's nightlife is raw, warm and a world from Riviera polish.

A lovely green park just behind the Prado beaches — a grand château, a boating lake, rose and botanical gardens, and lawns where the city relaxes, a short walk from the sea. A peaceful, leafy break from the urban intensity; combine it with a beach afternoon, or rent a bike to explore the seafront.

The ritual of the Marseille aperitif — a glass of cloudy, anise-scented pastis (Ricard was born here) topped with cold water and ice, sipped on a sunny terrace with olives and tapenade as the afternoon slides into evening. Do the apéro properly; and try the local street snacks — panisse (chickpea fritters) and a navette biscuit.