Southeast Asia
A thousand islands of temples, volcanoes, rice terraces and surf.
Indonesia is a sprawling archipelago of some 17,000 islands — volcanoes and rainforest, ancient temples and coral seas, and a warmth that wins everyone over. Bali is the jewel and the easy way in: a lush Hindu island of terraced rice paddies, cliff-top temples, world-class surf and beaches, a spiritual, artsy heart at Ubud and a party coast in the south. Cheap, beautiful and endlessly varied, it's paradise with a soul — even if success has brought crowds and traffic to its famous south.
What things cost: Bali is wonderfully cheap — superb local food (nasi goreng, satay) costs a euro or two, a scooter or a villa with a pool are a bargain, and even luxury undercuts the West. The touristy south's beach clubs charge more, but you never have to. When a zone below says 'low', that means very low indeed.
Sometimes the event picks the city for you.
Southeast Asia's leading literary festival — five days of authors, thinkers and artists in conversation across the beautiful venues of Ubud, with music, film and food alongside. A cultured, cosmopolitan gathering in the island's creative heart; a lovely reason to visit in the shoulder season.
Bali · Ubud
Jakarta's old Chinatown of Glodok comes alive for the Lunar New Year — the historic temples wreathed in red and gold and thick with incense, lion and dragon dances in the lanes, firecrackers and endless food. A vivid, joyful and deeply atmospheric time to explore the old quarter; go hungry, and expect colour, noise and a warm welcome.
Jakarta · Glodok (Chinatown)
Bali's extraordinary Day of Silence — the whole island shuts down for 24 hours of no lights, no travel, no work (even the airport closes), so the demons pass Bali by. The night before, villages parade giant, monstrous 'ogoh-ogoh' effigies before burning them. A unique, profound experience — but plan around the total shutdown.
Bali · The whole island
The great festival ending the fasting month of Ramadan, and the biggest event of the Indonesian year — as millions leave for their home villages in the mudik exodus, the usually gridlocked capital falls eerily, blissfully quiet, its mosques packed for prayers. A fascinating, unusually peaceful time to see Jakarta, though many shops and restaurants close for the holiday.
Jakarta · Across the city
A vast, month-long fair marking Jakarta's anniversary (June 22) — the biggest in Southeast Asia, part trade expo, part funfair, part food festival, with thousands of stalls, concerts by top Indonesian acts and nightly fireworks. A sprawling, lively slice of local life; go for the street-food, the bargains and the buzz, and expect big, happy crowds.
Jakarta · JIExpo Kemayoran
A month-long celebration of Balinese arts in Denpasar — daily dance, gamelan music, drama, craft and a grand opening parade, drawing performers from across the island. The best chance to see the depth of Bali's living culture in one place; free and richly atmospheric.
Bali · Denpasar Arts Centre
