Kuala Lumpur

The soaring, silvery symbol of modern Malaysia — the world's tallest twin towers, joined by a double-decker skybridge, dazzling by day and spectacular lit up at night above the fountains of KLCC park. Go up to the skybridge and observation deck (book ahead), or simply admire them from the park lawn after dark. KL's unmissable icon.

A vast limestone cave-temple on the city's northern edge, reached by 272 rainbow-painted steps guarded by a giant golden statue of Lord Murugan — Hindu shrines set inside soaring caverns, with cheeky macaques all around. Free, spectacular and easily reached by train; the most extraordinary sight in KL, and overwhelming during the Thaipusam pilgrimage.

The telecoms tower rising from a hilltop patch of rainforest, and the best 360° view in the city — higher-feeling than the Petronas deck, with a glass Sky Box for the brave and a revolving restaurant. Come near sunset to watch the towers and the whole sprawl light up. The classic KL panorama, and a fun contrast to the skyscrapers.

KL's most famous food street — a whole lane of Bukit Bintang that fills each evening with hawker stalls and plastic stools, smoke and sizzle: satay, char kway teow, grilled stingray, BBQ chicken wings and cold Tiger beer. Loud, cheap and delicious; wander, point, and graze your way down. The essential KL night out for eaters.

The frenetic covered market at the heart of Chinatown — stalls of knock-off watches and bags, dried goods and trinkets under red lanterns, with old kopitiam coffee shops and hidden temples all around. Haggle hard, or just soak up the atmosphere and eat: this old quarter has some of the best cheap Chinese-Malaysian food in the city.

The grand green where Malaysia declared independence, ringed by the Moorish domes and clock tower of the Sultan Abdul Samad Building and the mock-Tudor Royal Selangor Club. The elegant heart of colonial KL, with the confluence of rivers and the Masjid Jamek mosque just beside it; lovely in the late-afternoon light and floodlit at night.

A restored art-deco hall that was the old wet market, now the city's best spot for Malaysian crafts, batik, souvenirs and a food court of regional dishes under one cool roof. A calm, air-conditioned browse and a good place to pick up gifts, right beside Chinatown; the annexe has local art, and there's henna and portrait artists too.

KL is a shopping city, and Bukit Bintang is its engine — a run of vast, gleaming, ice-cold malls from the luxe Pavilion to the electronics of Low Yat, linked by covered walkways and thronged day and night. Great for a rainy afternoon, brand bargains and endless food courts; the beating retail heart of the city.

One of the finest museums in Southeast Asia — a beautifully lit collection of Islamic art from across the world under exquisite tiled domes: manuscripts, ceramics, textiles, arms and jaw-dropping scale models of the great mosques. Cool, calm and gorgeous, in the leafy Lake Gardens; a cultural highlight that rewards a slow couple of hours.

The green lung of old KL — the lakeside Perdana Botanical Gardens, and within them the KL Bird Park, a huge walk-through aviary where hornbills, peacocks and flamingos roam free around you. A shady, family-friendly escape from the heat and traffic, with the Butterfly Park and Orchid Garden nearby; lovely for a slow morning.

Malaysia's national dish and the taste of KL — coconut rice with fiery sambal, fried anchovies, peanuts, egg and cucumber, wrapped in banana leaf. Beyond it lies a whole world: roti canai, laksa, char kway teow, banana-leaf curries and Hainanese chicken rice, the three cultures on one glorious plate. Eat it at a mamak stall or a hawker court.

KL does the sky-high bar better than almost anywhere — infinity-edge terraces and cocktail lounges high above the streets, staring straight at the floodlit Petronas Towers. Dress up, ride the lift, and toast the skyline; from the famous Heli Lounge on a helipad to the KLCC-view rooftops, it's the city's most glamorous night out.

A patch of genuine tropical rainforest that survives right in the city centre below the KL Tower — a canopy walkway swaying through the treetops, with skyscrapers glinting between the leaves. A quick, surprising dose of jungle and birdsong minutes from the malls; combine it with the tower for a green half-hour in the middle of KL.

A spectacular six-tiered Chinese temple on a hilltop, dedicated to the sea goddess Mazu — dragon-wrapped columns, hundreds of red lanterns and sweeping views over the city, especially dazzling when strung with lights for Chinese New Year. Free, photogenic and serene above the traffic; one of the loveliest and most under-visited sights in KL.

The oldest and grandest Hindu temple in KL, right on the edge of Chinatown — a riotously colourful gopuram tower crowded with painted gods, and a serene, incense-scented interior. Free to visit (leave your shoes at the door); it's the starting point of the great Thaipusam procession to Batu Caves, and a vivid dose of Indian Malaysia.