Bangkok

The dazzling former royal seat — a glittering complex of gold spires, mirrored mosaics and mythical guardians, home to the revered Emerald Buddha in Wat Phra Kaew. Bangkok's must-see and utterly overwhelming; go early to beat the heat and crowds, and dress modestly (covered shoulders and knees).

Next to the Grand Palace, the serene old temple of the giant gold Reclining Buddha — 46 metres long, its feet inlaid with mother-of-pearl — and the birthplace of traditional Thai massage, still taught and given here. Calmer and cheaper than its neighbour; end with a massage in the temple grounds.

The 'Temple of Dawn' on the far bank of the river, its towering spire encrusted with a mosaic of broken porcelain that glows at sunrise and sunset. Cross on the little ferry and climb its steep steps for a view over the river; loveliest at golden hour, seen glowing from a riverside bar.

One of the world's biggest markets — 15,000 stalls of clothes, crafts, antiques, plants, art and food sprawling over 35 acres, open weekends. Overwhelming and brilliant; wear light clothes, bring cash and a plan, and graze the food stalls when you flag. Reached easily by sky-train.

The best street food in the world — pad thai and boat noodles, green curry, mango sticky rice and grilled satay, cooked to order at a plastic-stool stall for a euro or two. Follow the queues and the smoke; Chinatown, Victory Monument and the old-city lanes are the classic hunting grounds.

Bangkok invented the sky-high rooftop bar, and there's no better way to see the sprawl light up — a cocktail 60 floors above Silom as the sky-trains snake below and the sun sinks over the river. Dress smart (no shorts), go for sunset, and pick a lofty spot like the famous domed Sky Bar.

The river is Bangkok's cool, breezy back door — hop the cheap orange-flag express boat past temples and grand hotels, or thread the old canals (khlongs) of Thonburi by long-tail, gliding by stilt houses and floating vendors. The best way to see the city, and to escape the traffic.

The mother of all backpacker streets — a neon carnival of bars, street food, tattoo parlours, buckets of cheap booze and travellers from everywhere, roaring till the small hours. Touristy and chaotic, but a rite of passage and genuinely fun for a night; the surrounding lanes are calmer and cooler.

One of the world's great Chinatowns — a dense, neon-lit tangle of gold shops, herbalists and, after dark, an electric street-food scene of woks blazing on every corner. Come hungry at night for the best eating in the city; by day, lose yourself in the market lanes off Sampeng.

Blissful and dirt cheap — an hour of stretching, pressing traditional Thai massage for the price of a coffee back home, on offer from humble shophouse parlours to plush spas. The perfect antidote to a day of temples and heat; the massage school at Wat Pho is the gold standard.

A serene teak compound of traditional houses and a lush garden in the middle of the city, home of the American who revived Thai silk before vanishing mysteriously in 1967. A cool, green oasis and a lovely collection of Southeast Asian art; a calm hour off the frantic Siam streets.

A jaw-dropping riverside mega-mall — an indoor floating market of regional street food, luxury brands, and a nightly music-and-light fountain show on the river out front. Bangkok's air-conditioned, aspirational side at its most spectacular; go for the food hall and the sunset river view.

Bangkok's central green lung — lakes with paddle boats, joggers and tai-chi at dawn, and monitor lizards the size of dogs lazing on the banks (harmless, and a sight in themselves). A leafy, free breather in the middle of the downtown towers; loveliest early or late in the day.

The quintessential Bangkok thrill — hurtle through the traffic in a three-wheeled, open-sided tuk-tuk, engine buzzing, city rushing past. More expensive and less comfy than a metered taxi or Grab, but a rite of passage worth doing once; always agree the fare before you climb in.

A breezy riverside night market in converted old warehouses — stalls, restaurants, a big Ferris wheel and cabaret shows, reached by a free shuttle boat down the river at dusk. Touristy but pleasant and cool, with a good sunset ride there; an easy evening of shopping and eating by the water.