15 Jun – 15 Sep
Estate Romana
The city's summer-long outdoor programme — cinema on Tiber Island, concerts in villas and ruins, bars along the river banks. Rome moves outside and stays there.
Rome · Tiber banks & venues citywide
Italy is less one country than a federation of fierce local loyalties — every hundred kilometres the pasta shape changes, the accent changes, and somebody will tell you the next town does it all wrong. That's the pleasure of it. The north gives you lakes, Alps and money; the centre gives you Rome and the Renaissance; the south gives you chaos, coastline and the best cheap food in western Europe. You can't do it in one trip, and nobody who loves it would want to.
What things cost: Italy is mid-range for western Europe — cheaper than France or Switzerland, dearer than Greece or Portugal. The gap between tourist-priced and local-priced is the widest on the continent: fifty metres off any famous piazza, coffee drops from €6 to €1.20. When a zone below says 'low', that means low for Italy.
The cities
Florence
Tuscany — the Renaissance in one walkable city15 must-dos · 5 areas to stay
Milan
Italy's capital of fashion, design and finance — with a Gothic wonder at its heart15 must-dos · 5 areas to stay
Naples
Italy's chaotic, soulful southern city — pizza, Pompeii and the bay15 must-dos · 5 areas to stay
Rome
Capital — the eternal city, still living15 must-dos · 5 areas to stay
Venice
Veneto — canals, palaces and no cars at all15 must-dos · 5 areas to stay
What’s on in Italy
Sometimes the event picks the city for you.
Sep2–12
Venice Film Festival
The world's oldest film festival, out on the Lido — red carpets, Golden Lions and A-list premieres. You won't get into the galas, but the buzz spills across the island and tickets to public screenings do come up.
Venice · Lido di Venezia
Sep6
Regata Storica
The historic regatta — a parade of 16th-century boats crewed in period costume down the Grand Canal, followed by fiercely contested gondola races. The most spectacular day on the water all year.
Venice · The Grand Canal
Sep7
Festa della Rificolona
The paper-lantern festival — children parade to Piazza Santissima Annunziata carrying glowing lanterns on poles, a gentle end-of-summer tradition with market stalls and music. Sweet, local and low-key.
Florence · Piazza Santissima Annunziata
Oct14–25
Rome Film Fest
Premieres and red carpets at the Auditorium Parco della Musica, with screenings scattered across the city.
Rome · Auditorium Parco della Musica
1 Dec – 6 Jan
Christmas at Piazza Navona
The old Christmas market fills Navona through Epiphany, when La Befana — Italy's gift-bringing witch — closes the season.
Rome · Piazza Navona