East Asia
The future and the ancient, in perfect, polite order.
Japan is a country of exquisite contrasts — bullet trains and ancient temples, neon cities and misty mountains, robot cafés and tea ceremonies, all wrapped in a culture of astonishing courtesy, cleanliness and craft. Tokyo, the vast, humming capital, is the essential first hit: a collection of distinct villages under one endless skyline, where a thousand-year-old shrine sits behind a pop-culture arcade, the food is the best on earth at every price, and everything works with silent precision. Overwhelming, safe, and endlessly rewarding.
What things cost: Tokyo is far better value than its reputation — with the weak yen, a bowl of world-class ramen costs a few euros, the metro is cheap, and clean, tiny business hotels are affordable. Splurges (sushi omakase, kaiseki) climb fast, but you can eat superbly for very little. Much is card-friendly now, though carry some cash. When a zone below says 'low', that means genuinely reasonable for a world capital.
Sometimes the event picks the city for you.
Kyoto's other great colour season, when the maples of its temple gardens blaze scarlet and gold and many temples open for spectacular evening illuminations. Arguably even more beautiful than the cherry blossom, and nearly as busy; Arashiyama, Tofuku-ji and the eastern temples are the classic spots.
Kyoto · Temple gardens citywide
Japan's most important holiday — millions make their first shrine visit of the year (hatsumōde) at Meiji Shrine and Sensō-ji, ringing bells, drawing fortunes and eating festival food. Much of the city closes to rest, but the shrines are alive; a special, traditional time to be here.
Tokyo · Meiji Shrine, Sensō-ji & citywide
One of Japan's six annual Grand Sumo tournaments, held over fifteen days each March at the Osaka arena — a chance to watch the ancient sport up close, from the pageantry of the ring-entering rituals to the thunderous clashes of the top-division giants. A thrilling, only-in-Japan spectacle; buy tickets ahead, and go late afternoon for the biggest bouts.
Osaka · EDION Arena Osaka
For a fleeting week or two the city turns pink, and all Tokyo picnics under the blossom — Ueno Park, the Meguro River and Shinjuku Gyoen the great gathering spots, magical when lit up at night. The most beautiful, and most sought-after, time to visit; book far ahead.
Tokyo · Ueno Park, Meguro River & citywide
Kyoto in cherry blossom is the stuff of dreams — the Philosopher's Path, Maruyama Park and countless temple gardens clouded in pink, many lit up at night. The most beautiful (and busiest, and priciest) time to visit; book accommodation many months ahead, and go early to the famous spots.
Kyoto · Philosopher's Path, Maruyama Park & citywide
One of Tokyo's wildest festivals — nearly two million people fill the streets of Asakusa as teams carry a hundred portable shrines (mikoshi) through the crowds around Sensō-ji, amid drums, chanting and tattooed revellers. Three days of raucous, electric old-Tokyo spirit.
Tokyo · Asakusa
