Osaka

The beating neon heart of Osaka — a canal lined with a riot of giant animated signs, from the running Glico man to a colossal mechanical crab, and packed with food stalls, restaurants and crowds. Dazzling after dark, it's the city's must-see: stroll the canal, snap the Glico sign from Ebisu Bridge, and eat your way along. Pure, joyous sensory overload.

The magnificent castle that unified Japan — a soaring, gold-trimmed keep on massive stone ramparts, rising from a moat and a huge park that turns pink with blossom in spring. The reconstructed interior is a good museum of samurai history, and the top floor gives fine city views; the grounds alone are a lovely wander. Osaka's proudest landmark, and beautiful floodlit at night.

Osaka is Japan's kitchen, and its two icons are unmissable — takoyaki, molten octopus dumplings crisped in a griddle and doused in sauce and bonito, and okonomiyaki, the savoury cabbage pancake grilled at your table. Add kushikatsu skewers and you have the holy trinity of 'kuidaore' — eating yourself bankrupt. Cheap, glorious and everywhere; this is why people come.

Osaka's 'kitchen' market — a long covered arcade of stalls selling glistening seafood, wagyu skewers, fresh sushi, fruit and street snacks, much of it grilled and eaten on the spot. A food-lover's playground and a great early-day graze; wander, point and taste your way down, from sea-urchin to melon. Busy and touristy now, but still delicious and quintessentially Osakan.

A wonderfully retro slice of old Osaka, built a century ago in imitation of Paris and Coney Island and frozen in gaudy nostalgia — the Tsutenkaku tower at its centre, streets of glowing signs and cheap kushikatsu (deep-fried skewer) joints. Kitschy, cheap and full of character; come hungry in the evening for the full neon, deep-fried, old-school Osaka experience.

One of the world's best theme parks and a huge Osaka draw — thrilling rides and immersive worlds from the Wizarding World of Harry Potter to Super Nintendo World, where you run around a real-life Mario landscape. A brilliant full day out for families and kids-at-heart; buy tickets and an express pass ahead in busy seasons, and arrive early to beat the queues.

A striking twin-tower skyscraper joined at the top by a 'Floating Garden Observatory' — an open-air rooftop ring reached by a vertigo-inducing escalator through mid-air, with a 360° view over the whole city. Spectacular at sunset and after dark when Osaka glitters below; one of the most dramatic and distinctive viewpoints in Japan, right by Umeda station.

The oldest officially administered Buddhist temple in Japan, founded in 593 — a serene complex of a five-storey pagoda, golden pavilion and tranquil gardens, a world away from the neon a few streets off. Free to wander the grounds, with a lovely monthly flea market; a peaceful, deeply historic counterpoint to Osaka's brash modern face.

One of Japan's oldest and most important Shinto shrines, in a distinctive ancient style that predates Chinese influence — vermilion halls, lantern-lined paths and the famous steep, arched Taiko-bashi drum bridge over a pond. Peaceful, atmospheric and free, a short tram ride south; especially magical at dusk or during a festival, and far quieter than the city-centre sights.

One of the biggest and best aquariums in the world, built around a colossal central tank recreating the Pacific 'Ring of Fire', with whale sharks gliding through it. A brilliantly designed spiral walk down through the ocean's habitats, superb for families and adults alike; pair it with the giant Tempozan Ferris wheel and the bay-side views next door.

Osaka's great shopping run — the long covered Shinsaibashi-suji arcade of every brand and boutique, and beside it the youthful, edgy 'Amerika-mura' of streetwear, vintage and record shops. Buzzing day and night and sheltered from the weather, it flows straight into Dotonbori; the place to shop, people-watch and feel the pulse of young Osaka.

Osaka is Japan's most fun city after dark, and Namba is its playground — the lantern-lit alleys of Hozenji Yokocho, standing bars, izakaya, and the neon canyon of Dotonbori and America-mura heaving till dawn. Bar-hop the tiny drinking dens, slurp late-night ramen, and join the famously friendly, up-for-it Osaka crowd. The city's warmth and humour come out at night.

A small shrine with one enormous surprise — a giant lion's-head stage, twelve metres tall, its gaping mouth said to swallow evil spirits and bring good luck and success. Free, quirky and wonderfully photogenic, tucked in a quiet street a short walk from the Namba bustle; a quick, only-in-Osaka stop that never fails to raise a smile.

A leafy island of parks, museums and grand old civic architecture set between two rivers in the middle of the city — a lovely place to stroll, with the striking red-brick Central Public Hall, the rose garden and the Museum of Oriental Ceramics. A calm, green breather from the neon, best on foot or by river cruise; especially pretty when the buildings are lit at night.

A well-told journey through 1,500 years of the city, from its days as Japan's first capital to its rise as a merchant powerhouse — life-size recreations, models and artefacts, with big windows framing Osaka Castle across the way. Compact, engaging and great for context before or after the castle; the top-down view of the excavated ancient palace beneath is a highlight.